Introduction:
Wing Tung and my first 'self-traveling trip' in Japan was Ishigaki, a place governed by Okinawa Prefecture. We enjoyed the first birding experience in the "Eastern Galapagos" - the Ryukyu Islands group very much with friendly owls, serpent eagle (Paeagle ぱいーぐる!) and peaceful life. Furthermore, since I have particular interest on island ecology, visiting Okinawa main island to see the three endemics: the cute robin, skulking rail and the critically endangered woodpecker has been our next targets in Ryukyu and a wish for long.
In June 2018, we got three days holidays because of the weekend plus the Dragon Boat Festival, so we chose to make a short trip to Okinawa for the three targets.
Many thanks to Yann (for driving again!), Francis and Peter, we got a successful trip and made excellent views of the Okinawa Trios!
Flight:
We took the following two flights. Because of public holiday weekend, the cost for the tickets were much more expensive than usual:
16 June 2018
HX 658
1125 - 1510 (HKG to OKA)
19 June 2018
HX 659
1610 - 1750 (OKA to HKG)
Accommodation:
We stayed in
Ada Garden Hotel for three nights. Room is good and the hotel is close to the birding spots, or you can even see the endemics just in the hotel if you are lucky. For birders, this hotel is highly recommended. However, if you want to take dinner in the restaurant in hotel, an appointment should be done three days before check-in, so we dipped. And the closest Family Mart is around 30 mins driving distance from the hotel. So it may be unconvenient for dinner especially you need to go owling.
More information can be checked here:
https://www.hotelscombined.hk/Hotel/Ada_Garden_Hotel_Okinawa.htm?gclid=CjwKCAjwma3ZBRBwEiwA-CsblDMh0qF1ouHiZ_Po8CqnfQ5O65eoJOV7cTySNxmU0UuuDITMi5g1XhoCtIIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
The Trip:
16 June
HX 658, an A330
with Crested Ibis to Japan again
this is the lunch in plane
arrived Okinawa in 2 hours, very convenient!
afternoon tea
the car with us in the following four days
we decided to have our dinner before heading to the hotel. My favorite - curry!
and ice cream!
pineapple is a must-try in Okinawa,though not as sweet as the one in Iriomote last time
our first bird in Okinawa was Blue Rock Thrush. We went out this night to try for Japanese and Ryukyu Scops Owl, we didn't see any but the first tick of the trip - Okinawa Rail!
Okinawa Rail is a flightless species and they climb up to roost to avoid predator, like cat, snake or mongoose. We saw the first (two) rails roosting on a electric post!
then we saw another pair on a dead tree
they were very tame at night
iPhone version
beer to celebrate the first tick of the trip!
17 June
a simple breakfast
we tried several forest road for owls but still none, just some calling.. but we did see the first Okinawa Robin during the first light.
we went to Hiji Fall next, a male Okinawa Rail welcomed us near the entrance
then a female in trail
a newt - should be Sword-tailed Newt which is endemic and endangered in Ryukyu Islands
Sword-tailed Newt
a damselfly, no idea which species
Brown-eared Bulbul, the subspecies here has a more reddish underpart
we soon finished our Trio task (just in the second day!) when Francis found this female Okinawa Woodpecker! Sadly a record shot
more Okinawa Robin
the female robin was surprisingly cooperative
a view from a metal bridge in Hiji Fall
we returned to the spot where we saw the Okinawa Woodpecker, and we refound the bird, this time a pair! The female lacks reddish crown.
while the crown for male is reddish
this time allowed us a longer view and more photos
Okinawa Woodpecker, an critically endangered species
the global population is assumed to be 250-999 mature individuals
even though, we wouldn't know the woodpecker is quite "common" in northern Okinawa
superb view of Okinawa Woodpecker
we then saw our first owl of the trip, not a scops but Northern Boobook, an Ryukyu endemic subspecies, which Wing Tung and I saw in Ishigaki before.
an angry Boobook
Brown-eared Bulbul, they were very common but not easy to take a good photo
newt again
a view from the fall
a snake, sadly it's dead
it was still early morning and we went to the only Family Mart in Northern Okinawa to buy some snacks
like this
and this, limited edition!
we birded in some forest road and saw many many Okinawa Robin
and here's a cooperative male
Okinawa Robin, super cute and beautiful bird
female was less tamer here
this is no doubt to be a Robin Day
Okinawa Robin
more Okinawa Robin
more robin
sometimes they'r responsive to playback
Okinawa Robin
more male Okinawa Robin
and they'r curious on you
Okinawa Robin
we took many photos of the male Okinawa Robin
Okinawa Robin
Brown-eared Bulbul watching us when taking the robin
and several woodpeckers came suddenly
we got excellent view even the light was not good
Okinawa Woodpecker
Ryukyu Minivet at the same spot. We also heard a very close pair of Okinawa Rail, so it is possible to tick the trios just in a road junction!
with Ibis
we continued and saw more robin
and more...
a naught fifi - the Japanese White-eye, endemic subspecies here
green tea in hot afternoon
on the way to other spot, we saw our first daylight rail
Okinawa Rail
Aha Dam, our target here was Japanese Wood Pigeon but sadly none
Rail everywhere, it looked like crying
nothing really exciting in the dam , a juvenile Japanese Tit
a butterfly, Tung should know much better
a tamer fifi
our surprised trip tick, a Japanese Sparrowhawk taking its prey, hopefully not a white-eye or robin
somewhere on the road we saw the first Japanese Paradise Flycatcher - another endemic subspecies and we missed the photo in Ishigaki
then we went for a late lunch
pork rice, quite famous in Okinawa
and tea in cafe with Rail
more rails
rail everywhere, with banana?
and also pineapple
just like in Ishigaki and Iriomote, very hot in summer Okinawa, so we needed plenty drinks
we continued birding, more robin, rail, and woodpecker.. Also road sign for rail alert!
we were back to hotel for a short break, before owling
a view from our room
our second owling night, we saw none again, made us worried we would dip the other two owl species. Lucky we got plenty roosting rail again this night, less boring! And this is one of my favorite rail night shot!
we didn't realize a 3-day prior appointment is needed for dinner at hotel, so we went to the same Family Mart for an easy dinner....
the chicken was very good indeed
quite simple, even simpler than the meal in Iriomote
Okinawa limited beer, to end the second day!
18 June
a good start with two Okinawa Rail in early morning, but sadly my lens was foggy to take a clean shot
Okinawa Rail
Ryukyu Box Turtle, this was a living one [not dead!] (it just put all its legs and head into the shell), we put this back to the side of road, preventing another road kill. Not a lifer as we ticked in Iriomote before.
another Okinawa Woodpecker
and the commonest bird of the trip - Okinawa Robin
male Japanese Paradise Flycatcher - endemic Ryukyu breeder
damselfly
and this damselfly was very common too
Pacific Swallow, the default swallow species in Okinawa
Large-billed Crow - endemic subspecies too
Ryukyu Green Pigeon - not as common as in Yayaema Islands. Only this female was photoable this time.
a common scene in Ryukyu Islands, snake on the road
Ryukyu Odd-toothed Snake
we tried to take some better photos, but this snake was quite angry
a bridge outside a primary school, with woodpecker
and rail. A relaxing village life.
time for breakfast
chicken again!
and the only sushi of the trip
ice cream cake
tea of course
continued birding after breakfast, headed to Hiji Fall again, and Japanese Paradise Flycatcher at the entrance
and female Okinawa Robin
then a male Okinawa Robin
and more Okinawa Robin
we heard the Varied Tit, played its call but no response, then we tried to play the Japanese Tit call and the Varied came and called
the subspecies of Varied Tit in Okinawa looks like Iriomote Tit (we dipped!), maybe a lump in future?
Varied Tit amamii
and a juvenile followed the adult
another bird came suddenly, a juvenile Ryukyu Flycatcher. We didn't see any adult in this trip
We couldn't resist to take more Okinawa Robin. This one showed black flanks (after bath?), imitating the Ryukyu Robin which can be found in Amami. That one shows more extensive black flanks and forehead, also longer wings (as the Ryukyu Robin will migrate while Okinawa Robin is largely a resident).
Okinawa Robin
more Okinawa Robin
this one got a nice perch
Large-billed Crow
Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, of course they were much more commoner than the Okinawa Woodpecker
Ruddy Kingfisher, with its prey
the Ruddy Kingfisher here is endemic breeder
we saw plenty Ruddy Kingfisher in this trip but only this bird allowed us to take photo
damselfly again, same or different species? no idea
we were leaving the fall and saw the same owl in the same tree again - the Northern Boobook totogo
a no-billed owl
then I heard a gang of crazy Brown-eared Bulbul, maybe a owl nearby (but Brown-eared Bulbul are always excited no matter any owl or not. . . .). After a few minutes I found this.. an owl!
I identified as Ryukyu Scops Owl at first (like Tung and I saw in Ishigaki in daytime), but then we realised the iris color was not yellow but red - a Japanese Scops Owl (in fact the Japanese is much larger)! Our second owl species of this trip was safely ticked!
a lizard
ibis in Hiji Fall
and we saw a greenish snake near the exit
no idea what was this but a snake
too humid and hot and so we needed more drinks, just 100JPY each
tea to celebrate the owls!
time to lunch, and this is a rail.. a weird one
pork rice again
menu
Peter's noodle, quite big
my pork set, very delicious
there were other places we didn't go this time. Tung must love the rail viewing station, just like the Egg Tower in Ishigaki.
features of Okinawa Pork
the tea is good too, I bought some in the souvenir shop just next to the restaurant
more rail
and more ice cream
heavy rain after lunch, so we were back to hotel and took a rest, with chips. We were sad to hear about the Osaka earthquake from the news.
and beer!
when the rain got smaller, that was nearly dusk, so we went out to try the last owling chance, hopefully we could get the Ryukyu Scops Owl (the last owl species in our target list). No owl yet but many rails on the road!
a family of Okinawa Rail
Okinawa Rail crossing the road
more Okinawa Rail
juvenile Okinawa Rail, the upperpart is more brownish
another pair feeding on the road
we tried several spots for the Ryukyu Scops Owl, we only heard some. Until around 8pm, we heard a close bird along the road, we stopped the car and looked for it. Success!
and we were lucky to saw at least two Ryukyu Scops Owl singing together!
Ryukyu Scops Owl - reminded the first time to see this species at the first night in Ishigaki
Ryukyu Scops Owl
the last night of the trip, and also the last owl target!
we were happy about the birds but not joyful with the dinner!
19 June
we tried in early morning to see any other Ryukyu or Japanese Scops Owl but none. While two Okinawa Rail calling just outside the hotel car park.
a nice wooden rail
morning drink
the introduction of the Rail in the lobby
from the Birder in the lobby, interested to know the wing shape and length are so different between Okinawa and Ryukyu Robin
we continued our last birding day of the trip
we drove to north in west coast, many Brown-eared Bulbul
a single Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker
not long until Francis saw a black pigeon - Japanese Wood Pigeon! with a Large-billed Crow here
one of my long wishing Japanese target - the Japanese Wood Pigeon
and finally got a better photo of the Brown-eared Bulbul at the pigeon site
a view from the pigeon spot
with ibis
not a pigeon but a dove - Oriental Turtle Dove, Ryukyu endemic subspecies
fifi on the wire, unexpected
we also encountered another pair of Okinawa Woodpecker
the male was very cooperative, excellent view again!
the woodpecker should be the most difficult among the trios but still common in this trip
they were very responsive to the call as well - Okinawa Woodpecker
a single Pacific Reef Egret in a lagoon
and tea break
our last bird(s) of the trip
a video
can you spot it?
the first and also the last species we took in this Okinawa Trip - the Okinawa Rail
we spent nearly half an hour on watching this pair!
Okinawa Rail
they fed in the field like normal crake
fantastic view of this flightless species
see its strong legs
some rails walking on the slope
or in some dimmer place
said goodbye to us, see the rails next time in Okinawa again
chips to celebrate first before lunch
the place we lunched
pork rice
ice cream
ゆいゆい国頭 道の駅, this is the only place we could have a proper meal or buy some local souvenirs
ゆいゆい国頭 道の駅
hard to believe we could clear all the targets! celebration with this ice cream grapes (we try every-time in Japan)
way back to airport
and bought two pineapple to HK in the domestic terminal
my favorite but... sold out
time flies, need to go back to HK soon
Ryukyu Islands is always a great place to visit, and we wish to come back very soon (ibis too)
this is the 'dinner', so I needed more when I returned home.
the pineapple also safely arrived
algae 海ぶどう - Caulerpa lentillifera, very famous dish in Okinawa so I bought some too
Reference:
An online photoguide for birds of Okinawa
Birds of Okinawa
http://www.okinawa-kaeru.net/wild/bird.html
Okinawa Nature Photography
http://okinawanaturephotography.com/
Okinawa trip report
An excellent one include Iriomote (and the Tit!)
https://www.cloudbirders.com/tripreport/repository/KNASS_Ryukyu_03_2017.pdf
A Birder's Guide to Okinawa by Tom Marko
https://thewildernessalternative.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/abirdersguidetookinawav-19dec2012.pdf
Amami-Oshima and Okinawa report by Jeffrey H. Skevington, Sander Bot, Andrew D. Young
https://www.cloudbirders.com/tripreport/repository/SKEVINGTON_Japan_06_2016.pdf
Field Guide - Birds of Japan (2018) by Mark Brazil
https://lovingthetodiesforever.blogspot.com/2018/06/book-review-birds-of-japan-2018.html
A bird guide in Okinawa (if you need one)
http://park1.aeonnet.ne.jp/~yanbaru/birdwatching.html
ゆいゆい国頭 道の駅 (we bought souvenirs and took lunch here)
http://www.yuiyui-k.jp/shopping
Trip List:
A total of 36 species seen (no heard only) in four days. We did see most of the birds in our target list, except two: Barred Buttonquail, which can be found in paddy-field or sugarcane-field we didn't check this time; and Amami Woodcock, a rare bird (residents and winter visitors?) in northern Okinawa, so we better wait for next time to Amami.
Birds of the trip are the three Okinawa endemics:
1st: Okinawa Rail
2nd: Okinawa Robin
3rd: Okinawa Woodpecker
Rock Dove Columba livia
- seen in Naha only
Japanese Wood Pigeon Columba janthina janthina
- 2 seen, probably a pair
Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis stimpsoni
- Ryukyu endemic subspecies
Ryukyu Green Pigeon Treron permagnus permagnus
- not yet split in IOC; Ryukyu endemic subspecies; 3 seen and one more possible seen by Peter only
Lesser Cuckoo Cuculus poliocephalus
- the default cuckoo species in Okinawa in summer; many heard and 1 hepatic seen in Hiji Falls
Okinawa Rail Hypotaenidia okinawae
- Okinawa endemic, around 30 individuals seen and 15 individuals heard in four days
(Eastern) Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis coromandus
- not yet split in HBW, as Eastern Cattle Egret
Great Egret Ardea alba modesta
- several seen
Intermediate Egret Ardea intermedia
- several seen in northern Okinawa
Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta
- several seen
Pacific Reef Egret Egretta sacra sacra
- 1 black morph seen
Little Tern Sterna albifrons sinensis
- seen in Naha only
Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana sumatrana
- 1 seen in Naha only
Tern sp.
- some unidentified tern species encountered in Naha and northern Okinawa
Northern Boobook Ninox japonica totogo (japonica in HBW)
- 1 seen in Hiji Falls in daytime and several heard at night; possible split as Ryukyu Hawk Owl
Japanese Scops Owl Otus semitorques pryeri
- 1 seen in Hiji Falls in daytime and 1 heard near hotel; possible split as Pryer's Scops Owl
Ryukyu Scops Owl Otus elegans elegans
Japanese Sparrowhawk Accipiter gularis (iwasakii ?)
- 1 seen hunting in Aha Dam
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis bengalensis
- 1 seen in Hiji Falls
Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda bangsi
- Ryukyu endemic breeding subspecies
Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker Picoides kizuki nigrescens
- Ryukyu endemic subspecies
Okinawa Woodpecker Dendrocopos noguchii
- Okinawa endemic; more than 11 individuals seen and 6 individuals heard in four days
Ryukyu Minivet Pericrocotus tegimae
- several seen and heard
Japanese Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone atrocaudata illex
- Ryukyu endemic breeding subspecie; sseveral seen and heard
Large-billed Crow Corvus macrohynchos connectens
- Ryukyu endemic subspecies
Varied Tit Sittiparus varius amamii
- Ryukyu endemic subspecies; at least 1 adult and 1 juvenile seen in Hiji Falls
Japanese Tit Parus minor okinawae
- not yet split in HBW; Okinawa endemic subspecies
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis brunniceps
- commonly seen displaying
Pacific Swallow Hirundo javanica namiyei
- as House Swallow in HBW
Brown-eared Bulbul Hypsipetes amaurotis pryeri
- Ryukyu endemic subspecies
Light-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus sinensis orii
- Ryukyu endemic subspecies
Japanese Bush Warbler Horornis diphone cantans
- commonly heard and at least 1 seen
Japanese White-eye Zosterops japonicus loochooensis
- Ryukyu endemic subspecies
Okinawa Robin Larvivora namiyei
- Okinawa endemic; not yet split in IOC; more than hundred seen and heard in four days
Ryukyu Flycatcher Ficedula owstoni shonis
- not yet split in IOC; at least 2 juveniles seen in Hiji Falls
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius philippensis
- commonly seen
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
- commonly seen
